Travels with Terri

What do Pirates, Mummies, Scotland, Shakespeare, and Clash of the Titans have in common? Continue reading to find out!  

When we told our friends that were we going to Tenerife, they gave us numerous suggestions for places to see and things to do. Mount Teide, the cliffs of Los Gigantes, Masca village, and the famous Dragon Tree were their top choices. Since we didn’t rent a car, I booked a half day tour with a private driver and guide. Gregory picked us up in front of our apartment and we headed northwest towards the Teno mountains. Our first stop was a breathtaking overlook of the cliffs of Los Gigantes (the Giants.) These sheer cliffs range in height from 985 to 1,967 feet (300 to 600 meters) and plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean. The waters below are home to colonies of both Pilot whales and Bottlenose dolphins. With various cacti and scrub bushes, the surrounding landscape reminded me of the desert hills of Arizona.

We were quite impressed with Gregory’s knowledge of the history, geography, and climate of Tenerife. On the way to our next stop, he told us about the original inhabitants of the Canary Island, the Guanches. When Spain colonized the islands in the 15th century, they discovered a race resembling the Neolithic cultures from Europe and the Mediterranean. These aboriginal people became known as Guanches. According to a study published in 2017, they are genetically most similar to modern North African Berbers. However, their presence on the islands remains a mystery as they lacked boats and the knowledge to navigate the surrounding seas. Archaeological discoveries in the Cave of the Guanches near Icod de los Vinos revealed items dating back to the 6th century BC. Gregory told us that they were cave dwellers who made pottery, used alphabet-like engravings, and worshipped multiple deities. Although the Guanches have become extinct as a people, the current inhabitants of the Canaries are partially descended from them, according to genetic studies.

As we continued up the hilly road to Masca, I was very glad that Gregory was driving the treacherous route. With steep drop-offs, hairpin turns, and blind curves, driving on this road is not for the faint of heart. Gregory navigated the barely two-lane road full of cars, bicycles, and tour buses like a pro. By the time we reached the outlook above Masca village, I was very happy to be on level ground for a bit. Masca lies at an altitude of 2,133 feet (650 meters) in the Macizo de Teno mountains and is home to about 90 people. Nearby cave engravings indicate that the Guanche people resided there at one time. Also, according to legend, Masca was a favorite hideaway for pirates due to its secluded location and difficulty to reach by the Spanish army.

Back on the road towards our next stop, Gregory told us that it is believed that the island of Tenerife is made up of three different mountain ranges (Teno, Valle de San Lorenzo, and Anaga) that merged over eons of volcanic activity. He also explained how violent eruptions impacted the former capital of Garachico on the northwest coast of Tenerife. During the 16th and 17th centuries, Garachico boomed as a shipping port with commercial traffic to Europe, America, and Africa. The town was able to recover from volcanic landslides in 1645 that killed over 100 residents. However, a violent eruption in 1706 forever changed its landscape as lava rivers poured into the harbor making it unsuitable for commercial shipping. Fishing and tourism are now its main activities. Our first view of Garachico was from a scenic overlook on the western side of the former harbor. Huge waves from the Atlantic crash against the volcanic rocks, creating a frothy whirlpool of varying shades of blue and white. At low tide, residents use these tidal pools for bathing. A tall bronze sculpture near the overlook caught our attention. Erected in 1990, the monument to Canarian Emigrants is the work of the sculptor Fernando García Ramos. At over 13 feet (4 meters) tall, it is a tribute to the young Canarians who emigrated across the sea to Venezuela.

Our final stop of the day was to see the famous Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) of Icod de Los Vinos. These unusual looking trees have a fantastic origin according to Greek mythology. Dracaena comes from the Greek drakaira, a term that designates the female dragon, and from draco, which in Latin means dragon. According to the myth The Twelve Labors of Heracles, the dragon tree would have been born from the blood of Ladon, the hundred-headed dragon, who watched over the golden apples in the Garden of the Hesperides. Standing 56 feet (17 meters) high, the immense tree measures 66 feet (20 meters) at its base and weighs approximately 300,000 pounds not including the roots. It dwarfs the surrounding vegetation and is definitely worth a visit.

So what do Pirates, Mummies, Scotland, Shakespeare, and Clash of the Titans have in common? The connection is the wonderful island of Tenerife of course!

• The village of Masca is rumored to have been founded by pirates due to its inaccessibility by Spanish soldiers on horseback.
• In the 20th century, the mummified remains of the Guanche people were found in caves and crags on Tenerife. A number of these mummies can be seen at the Museum of Nature and Mankind in Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
• St. Andrew is the patron saint of both Tenerife and Scotland. They also have the same blue and white flag.
• Shakespeare was known to like Canarian wine and mentioned it in The Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV.
• Clash of the Titans was filmed on Tenerife in 2010. Hollywood also used the island to shoot Fast and Furious 6 in 2013 and Jason Bourne 5 in 2016.

Stayed tuned for my next blog, a guessing game for my readers!