Travels with Terri

“My bounty is as boundless as the sea, My love as deep. The more I give to thee, The more I have, for both are infinite.” – Juliet from Romeo and Juliet

Time for yet another confession. I didn’t instantly fall in love with William Shakespeare when I read his tragedy Romeo and Juliet in high school. I couldn’t understand the language, found the plot confusing, and hated the ending. I think most students in my class felt the same way until our teacher guided us to a deeper understanding of both the play and Shakespeare. In college, my admiration for his works grew stronger after reading Hamlet and Macbeth. My desire to read more led me to his comedy A Midsummer Night’s Dream. But it was his tragedy King Lear that made me fall in love with Shakespeare.

When our friends we were visiting in England mentioned that Stratford-upon-Avon was only an hour from their house, I jumped at the chance to see the birthplace of William Shakespeare. A modern building houses the ticket office and exhibition space, which features a permanent collection of Shakespeare era items such as clothing and schoolbooks. Also on display are various documents including the parish register entry of his baptism and the contents page of his First Folio from 1623. I was surprised to learn that his exact date of birth is unknown. During that time infants were baptized three days after birth and records show that Shakespeare was baptized on the 26th of April 1564. His birthday is celebrated on the 23rd of April three days before his baptism. Before entering his birthplace, we spent some time walking around the lovely cottage style garden. Numerous aromatic plants mentioned in his plays adorn the garden including rosemary, marjoram, and lavender.

Shakespeare’s father John married Mary Arden in about 1557 and William was the third of their eight children (only five survived past childhood.) John was a successful glove-maker who became the Mayor of Stratford in 1568. It was due to his father’s position that William was able to attend the local grammar school. William married Anne Hathaway in 1582 at the age of eighteen and continued to live in the same house with his parents. They had three children: Susanna, Judith, and Hamnet.

Although the house looks quite large from the street, I was surprised by how small many of the rooms are. The guide in the first room we entered explained that the parlour functioned as both a family gathering spot and for entertaining their guests. The best bed in the house was placed there for overnight visitors. The dining hall is much larger and features an open fireplace where meals were prepared. A separate room at the back of the house was used to store game, produce, cooking pots, and other items for preparing meals. One of the largest rooms is the workshop where Shakespeare’s father made gloves. He processed the kid, lamb, and deer skins with lime, alum, egg, and urine, and sold his wares from the workshop window and at one of the markets in town.

On the next floor, we saw the bedroom shared by William and his two younger brothers. The bright room is quite large but only contains one bed. The guide told us that during the 1500’s fires were forbidden in Stratford past 8:00 pm due to the risk of damage to the wooden and thatch structures. She also mentioned that the windows were only covered by wooden shutters as glass was not added to the house until the late 1600’s. Hence it was quite common for family members to share a bed in order to stay warm. The room used as the bedroom for girls now houses a small exhibition space.

It is believed that Shakespeare was born in his parents bedroom, a large room next to the boys room. It was common in Tudor times for children to stay with their parents until the age of five. After birth, William would have slept in a wooden cradle until he outgrew it, then slept in a pull-out wood and rope trundle bed beside his parents bed.

William inherited the house after his father died in 1601 and leased the two-room adjoining cottage to his sister Joan Hart. The remainder of the house was also leased out and became an inn called the Maidenhead. Later renamed the Swan and Maidenhead Inn, it remained in operation until 1847. Shakespeare’s oldest daughter Susanna inherited the house after his death in 1616 and it remained in the family until 1806 when it was purchased by Thomas Court, a butcher. The entire property was put up for sale in 1846 and a public campaign supported by Charles Dickens was launched to save it. The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust purchased the property at auction in 1847 for £3,000 and have cared for it since. During his lifetime, Shakespeare wrote 39 plays, 154 sonnets, and 3 long narrative poems. His plays have been translated into every major living language and are still performed around the world including the Globe Theatre in London.

Here are a few tips to help you plan your visit:

• Timed entry tickets for Shakespeare’s Birthplace can be purchased online here. Admission for adults is £18.00 and discounts are offered for children under 16 and families.
• For a more immersive experience, book a Shakespeare’s Story ticket which includes admission to his Birthplace, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, and Shakespeare’s New Place. Single entry tickets cost £24.00 for adults with discounts for families and children. Note: Time slot entry tickets are only required to visit Shakespeare’s Birthplace.

In my next blog, join me for a barge trip on the Canal du Midi in France. Stay Tuned!