Travels with Terri

Since Rick and I both have Czech and Bohemian roots, visiting Prague was a high priority on our “wish list” of places to see. Located on the Vltava river, it is the largest city and capital of the Czech Republic and the historical capital of Bohemia. Prague is home to about 1.3 million people and receives between 6 and 8 million visitors per year. We planned our trip for April of 2019 to avoid peak tourist season. Spring is a lovely time to visit, and we had sunny warm days and crisp cool evenings. All the flowers and trees were in full bloom, a very nice bonus!

We spent our first three nights in Prague in a rather unusual accommodation, a river cruising boat named Florentina. During the warm months, it cruises the Vltava river offering its passengers stunning views, fine dining, and tours. Off season, it is docked near the Čechův most (Czech Bridge). Named after the Czech writer Svatopluk Čech, this bridge is a stunning example of the art nouveau style. Our river view cabin had sliding glass doors, ample storage space, and a private bath with a sink, toilet, and shower. Public spaces included a sun deck, lounge, and large dining room. Breakfast was buffet style with ample choices to suit every taste including fresh fruit, cheeses, meats, pastries, and both hot and cold drinks. Both of our dinners onboard were delicious and beautifully presented. We especially enjoyed seeing all the colorful lights reflected on the Vltava river at night and waking to white swans floating past our cabin.

One of the best ways to experience a new city is to take a tour with a local guide. We booked a half-day private tour and met our guide Mesh at the New Stage (Nová Scéna), part of the National Theatre. Mesh has lived in Prague for many years and his knowledge and passion for the city was obvious. We really enjoyed his sense of humor and learned so much about Prague’s history, architecture, and culture. He told us that the Nová Scéna was built in the 1980’s and is constructed from over four thousand blown glass blocks. Designed by Stanislav Libenský, it is home to Laterna Magika and other original projects. Our next stop was the memorial to late Czech President Vaclav Havel. Mesh told us that it was unveiled on the anniversary of Havel’s birth on October 4th, 2016. A writer and activist for human rights, Havel was jailed by the communist government until being swept into power in 1989 during the “Velvet Revolution.”

The most striking thing we noticed about Prague during our stay is how well-preserved the old buildings are. Many European cities suffered heavy damage during WWII, but Prague was not bombed. Mesh explained that the city was seen as having limited strategic value, and there were concerns about potential damage to historical and cultural landmarks. With its eclectic mix of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Modern), Prague is simply stunning. After crossing the Vltava river, we took the funicular to the top of Petřín Peak and were treated to stunning views of Prague along the way. At 193 feet (58.7 meters) tall, Petřín Lookout Tower dominates the landscape. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, it was built as part of the Jubilee Exhibition in 1891. We decided to forego the line to climb the 299 steps to the top and instead headed towards our next destination, the Strahov Monastery Brewery.

Founded in 1142, the Strahov Monastery has been brewing beer for over 600 years. In 2000, the brewery, restaurant, and courtyard opened to the public. Its famous Saint Norbert beer is named after the founder of the Premonstratensian Order, who have inhabited the Strahov Monastery since the beginning. The beers are unfiltered and unpasteurized and are made from the finest Czech malts and hops. An Amber Lager, Dark Lager, and IPA are on tap year-round and they offer seasonal brews such as Chocolate Stout and Dunkelweizen. Producing about 47,560 gallons (1,800 hectoliters) each year, it’s a favorite spot for both residents and tourists. Nothing can beat a good chilled beer on a warm spring day!

Join me for Part Two where we visit the gorgeous St. Vitus Cathedral, experience a tribute to John Lennon, discover some amazing public art, and explore Kampa Island.