Travels with Terri

Since we were staying in Budapest for three nights, we booked an apartment rather than a hotel. Located on the Pest side of the Danube River, our apartment had two bedrooms, a lounge with a flat screen TV, dining area, kitchen, two bathrooms, and a washing machine and drying rack. On long trips, it’s nice to be able to wash clothes so we can travel lighter. Another advantage of staying in an apartment is having a fridge for beverages and snacks and having a coffee machine. The location was perfect with many cafes, restaurants, shops, and grocery stores all within a short walk. We didn’t encounter any language barriers as English is widely spoken.

From our apartments windows, we had a stunning view of St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István Bazilika). The Roman Catholic basilica is named in honor of Stephen I, the first King of Hungary (c. 975 – 1038). It was designed by Miklós Ybl in Neo-Classical style and was completed by József Kauser in 1905, after 54 years of construction. It is the largest church in Budapest and a historical landmark within the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site Buffer Zone. At 315 feet (96 meters), it is one of the two tallest buildings in Budapest the other being the Hungarian Parliament. Its dome can be accessed either by elevator or 364 steps for a panoramic view of the city. The stained-glass windows were created by Miksa Róth and include St. Margaret, St. Elizabeth, St. Catherine, and St. Stephen. Part of the 2016 movie “Inferno” was filmed in St. Stephen Square in front of the basilica. Adult entry tickets for the Church cost about $6.75 or for $12.65 you can tour the Church, the Panoramic Terrace, and the Treasury.

As I mentioned in my Warsaw blog, my grandparents were born in Hungary. They came to the United States from Apatin (now Serbia) in 1907 and settled in Cleveland, Ohio in the early 1920’s where my mother was born. Both she and my grandmother were excellent cooks, and I was raised on many delicious Hungarian dishes. My favorites were chicken paprikash with finger dumplings, cucumber salad with sour cream and fresh dill, and stuffed cabbage rolls (a staple in many Central European countries). The three of us went to the fabulous West Side Market in Cleveland twice a week to buy fresh chickens, eggs, meats, and produce. As a special treat, my mother would buy Szalonna (cured pork belly seasoned with paprika), and we’d enjoy it on fresh bread with a slice of green pepper. The only dish I refused to eat was Hurka, a blood and rice sausage seasoned heavily with black pepper. My father didn’t care for it either, so we’d have homemade macaroni and cheese instead. On our first night in Budapest, Rick and I had dinner at PÖRC & PRÉZLI near our apartment. Their chicken paprikash was very tasty but certainly didn’t rival my moms or grandmothers version. During dinner, we enjoyed listening to a duet (violin and cimbalom) perform traditional Hungarian music.

Taking a boat tour on the Danube River in Budapest has been on my bucket list for years, so I booked one for my birthday. After looking at numerous reviews, I chose a sunset buffet dinner cruise. Seeing all the buildings lit along the river while enjoying a good meal (or so I thought) seemed like the perfect choice. As we boarded the boat, we were given a welcome drink and escorted to our table. The interior of the boat is quite elegant with a grand double staircase to the dining level. There are two large dining rooms and both offered live music. Rick and I were pleased that our private window table was in the hallway between the dining rooms so we could actually hear each other. On either side of the boat, there are large outdoor seating areas that have excellent views. Our server arrived quickly to take our drink order and was very pleasant and attentive to us during our time onboard. Shortly after leaving the dock, the captain announced that the dinner buffet was open. It was at this point that my birthday celebration quickly went downhill. There was no indication that I could see that each dining room offered a different menu, so I went to the one closest to our table. I took one plate of food and a small bowl of salad for Rick and I to share. On my way back to our table, I was confronted by another server who insisted that I went to the wrong buffet and would have to pay extra for our meal! He even followed me back to our table to see our booking tickets. On the verge of tears, I told him to let it go since it was my birthday. He finally relented and walked away in a huff. Our server apologized for his colleagues rude behavior and even treated us to a special Hungarian liquor. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have booked the tour with the cocktail option and eaten elsewhere before or after.

Cover: Hungarian Parliament Building (Országház), Central Market Hall

In my next blog, we spend four nights in stunning Vienna. Stay tuned!