Travels with Terri

I fell in love with Lisbon on our first visit and my feelings deepen the more time I spend in this magnificent capital city. Our visit was short, only one night, but Lisbon certainly made a lasting impression. Rick and I visited Portugal in late May of 2017 as part of a four-country trip to Europe. Although it wasn’t on our original itinerary, we decided to add it as we wanted to check out the Algarve region of Southern Portugal as a potential spot to retire.

After picking up our rental at the airport, we headed off to find our hotel near Rossio Square. Driving in a new city is always challenging, especially when all the road signs are in a foreign language. Somehow, we managed to find the parking garage by our hotel, and everything seemed to be going well. That was until we tried to pay for an overnight ticket at the kiosk. As we stood there staring at the machine, a young man asked us if we needed help. Not only did he spend almost thirty minutes with us, but he also called the parking company to get all the information we needed to get our ticket. When we tried to offer him a tip for his time, he refused it and told us that helping people was “the Portuguese way.”

Since we retired and moved to Obidos, Portugal in the fall of 2018, we visit Lisbon often and one of our favorite places to stay is near Rossio Square in the Baixa area. The centerpiece of this large square is the Column of Pedro IV (Coluna de D. Pedro IV,) a monument to Peter IV, King of Portugal and the first Emperor of Brazil, as Peter I. Erected in 1870, the bronze statue stands atop a tall Corinthian order column made of marble. The column is 75 feet tall (23 meters) and at its base are four female figures depicting Justice, Wisdom, Strength, and Moderation. All qualities befitting a King. The statue depicts Pedro IV in a general’s uniform and royal cloak, his head crowned in laurels, and holding the Constitutional Charter of 1826 in his right hand.

Surrounded by a multitude of shops, cafes, and restaurants, Rossio Square is one of our favorite places in Lisbon to grab a drink and people watch. It’s particularly stunning in June when all the jacaranda trees are in full purple bloom. The square also boosts 2 large fountains, each one consisting of 4 mermaids holding conch shells. The bronze sculptures were created by sculptors Mathurin Moreau and Michel Lienard and were installed with the fountains in 1889. They were created in Val d’Osne, France and then imported to Portugal. The rich seafaring history of Portugal is depicted in the emblematic pattern of the square’s pavement, Mar Largo (large sea), which simulates unstable waves.

For architecture and history buffs, the Rossio Train Station is well worth checking out. Commissioned by the Portuguese Royal Railway Company, the station was designed between 1886 and 1887 by Portuguese architect José Luís Monteiro. The tunnel was excavated under the city and is considered one of the most important works of engineering in Portugal during the 19th century. It was completed in 1890. The Neo-Manueline façade dominates the northwest side of the square and is a romantic recreation of the exuberant Manueline style, typical of early 16th century Portugal. Two intertwined horseshoe portals adorn the entrance along with ornately carved stonework and a clock tower. The fourth President of Portugal, Sidónio Pais, was assassinated in Rossio Station in December 1918.

These sights make Rossio Square a must for visitors and the best part is that they are all free. In the next blog, I’ll continue to share my top picks for things to see and do around Rossio on a budget.