Travels with Terri

A stroll around Rossio Square in Lisbon is always lovely no matter what time of year. My favorite times are in June when the jacaranda trees are in bloom and in December when all the holiday lights are up. A short walk from the square brings you to the Santa Justa Elevator. About one million people visit the 147-foot tall (45 meter) tower annually. It was designed by Raoul Mesnier de Ponsard, a disciple of Gustave Eiffel, the engineer responsible for the Eiffel Tower in Paris and has been in operation since June of 1902. Originally operated by steam, it switched to electricity in 1907. We’ve walked past it several times on our visits to Lisbon but as the lines were very long, we have yet to ride it. Tickets cost €5.30, well worth it as it will save you the steep walk up the hill to Convento do Carmo.

From Rossio Square, you can also reach the Convento via a long set of stairs. Even though little remains of the structure, its history is fascinating and well worth a look. Dating back to 1389 and founded by D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Constable of Portugal, it was initially occupied by Carmelite friars. D. Nuno entered the convent as a religious in 1423, after having donated all his possessions to see the completion of his work. He was canonized as Saint Nuno de Santa Maria by Pope Benedict XVI in 2009. The earthquake of 1755 left the Gothic church in ruins which now house the Archaeological Museum of Carmo. Admission is €5.00 for adults with a discount for seniors and students. Strolling around the ruins always leaves me in awe. Not only are they visually interesting but the feeling of being surrounded by something built over 600 years ago is powerful and moving. It’s the same feeling I’ve had inside many ancient structures, especially Notre Dame in Paris. If you’re in Lisbon during the summer, be sure to check out the immersive show Lisbon Under Stars. The show combines visuals with music, dance, and art and tells the history of Lisbon including the Age of Discovery and the earthquake of 1755. Multimedia images are projected on the walls of the Convent, surrounding the audience with a three- dimensional canvas. A truly unique experience!

Besides the Santa Justa Elevator, there are several spots near Rossio Square that offer spectacular views of the Lisbon skyline. Rossio Gastrobar at the Hotel Altis Avenida is one such place. Located directly across from Rossio Train Station, this rooftop restaurant offers sweeping views from the Moorish palace Castelo de S. Jorge all the way to the Tagus River. Rick and I have eaten here twice, and the food and service are impeccable. A truly gourmet dining experience worthy of special occasions. To enjoy the view without a hefty bill, go to the outdoor lounge late in the day and order a libation of your choice. Watching the sunset over Lisbon while seated on one of the designer sofas is a special treat.

A short walk from the hotel brings you to another large square, the Praça dos Restauradores. The square is a tribute to those who fought in the war of restoration and celebrates the liberation of Portugal from Spanish rule in 1640. Its main feature is a 98 feet tall (30 meters) obelisk adorned with two bronze statues representing Victory and Liberty. Continue walking down the square and you’ll come to the Hard Rock Café (worth checking out but spendy.) Directly across the square from here, you’ll find a steep street that leads to a sweeping hilltop view of Lisbon. You can either walk up the 17.7% slope or catch a ride on the Glória Ascensor. Opened in October of 1885, the lift was originally propelled by a water-powered counterweight system, which was replaced with a steam-powered mechanism in 1886. A round trip ticket is €3.80. At the top of the hill, a short walk to the right will bring you to Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara. Rick and I discovered this park by accident when we visited in December of 2017. As we exited Glória, we heard live music playing and followed the sound. To our delight, a Christmas market was in full swing with a variety of food and shopping booths. After taking in the amazing views, we enjoyed listening to the band while having ginjinha in Belgian chocolate cups.

To round out your visit to Rossio Square, stop by the A Ginjinha Shop to try the drink called ginjinha. This sweet red liqueur is made of sour cherries soaked in aguardente, a distilled spirit, and is flavored with sugar and cinnamon. The origins of ginjinha go back to the Romans, who brought their sour cherry ‘Prunus Cerasus’ trees to Portugal. Centuries after that, a Christian friar is believed to have successfully experimented with aguardente, Prunus Cerasus cherries, sugar and cinnamon. Popular with both locals and tourists, this shop serves up the drink two ways, with or without cherries. While there are other ginjinha shops in the area, this one is the most famous as it was featured on the Anthony Bourdain show “No Reservations.” A shot will cost a little over €1.00 but be careful as they really pack a wallop!

For a final stop, head back to Praça dos Restauradores to sample the pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) at Fábrica da Nata. This is my second favorite place in Lisbon for these yummy tarts; the other is Pastéis de Belém (which I’ll cover in a blog about the Belem neighborhood in the future.) Offering both indoor and outdoor seating, Fábrica serves a variety of items including pastries, sandwiches, salads, and quiche. But the star is the pastel de nata, a bargain at €1.00 each. We always dine here when we visit Rossio as the food is good and the prices are very reasonable.

Hope you enjoyed visiting Rossio with me. I’ll be posting more blogs about Lisbon and other destinations soon!