Travels with Terri

In early May, Rick and I spent two days in Paris before heading to Amsterdam. As we’ve been to Paris numerous times, we decided to skip museum visits and simply enjoy being in our favorite part of the city, the Latin Quarter (5th arrondissement). Traffic getting from Orly airport to our hotel was challenging due to the preparations for the Summer Olympics. Many roads were blocked but after some skillful navigation by our driver, we arrived at the lovely Hotel La Lanterne.

Located just around the corner from our favorite market (Marche Maubert) on Boulevard Saint-Germain, Hotel La Lanterne is a true gem. Finding lodging in Paris with an outdoor garden space is difficult, which is one of the many reasons that make this hotel special. Its stylish interior includes several seating areas, a workspace, and a breakfast room and bar. The décor is eclectic and features beautiful art pieces and numerous lanterns (lanternes in French) in various sizes and styles. In the basement are a jetted swimming pool, hammam, fitness area, and a spa that offers massages, facials, and body treatments. Our superior room was beautifully decorated, and we had a spacious covered balcony overlooking the garden. (I booked the room on the hotel website and saved 15% off for both nights).

After dropping off our luggage, our first order of business was to find a place to eat. Located near our hotel, we choose L’Annexe de La Petite Périgourdine. We had been there years ago for drinks and live music but had never tried their food. My delicious Thai salad consisted of grilled shrimp, avocado, mango, tomato, cilantro, and grilled bell peppers and onions. Rick ordered the cheeseburger which is made from minced steak and served with red onion, spring greens, tomatoes, and frites (French fries). Cooked to perfection, it was one of the best burgers I have ever tasted! That evening, we went to Sweet KT Japanese restaurant for dinner and shared a delicious sushi platter. We capped off the evening on our balcony sipping wine and watching thunderbolts dance across the night sky. A perfect end to our first day in Paris!

Our friend Michel met us at our hotel the next day and took us to one of his favorite restaurants in the Latin Quarter, Bouillon Racine. Bouillon is French for broth and in 1855 the first Bouillons opened in Paris. Serving a single dish of meat and broth, they became the first chain of restaurants for the working class. By 1900, close to 250 Bouillons existed in Paris providing hearty and affordable food to their customers. As the Art Nouveau movement came into fashion in the early 1900’s, restaurants embraced the trend in architecture, furniture, and decoration. In 1906, the Grand Bouillon Camille Chartier (Bouillon Racine) opened on Racine Street. Featuring carved wood, ceramics, and glass paintings, it became a favorite with the affluent residents. In 1996, Bouillon Racine underwent a complete renovation to restore it to its former glory.

The two-story exterior is gorgeous with ornate glass windows, carved wood columns, and painted wood panels. The interior is decorated in various shades of gold and green, with stained glass windows, marble mosaics, beveled mirrors, and lovely Art Nouveau pieces. Truly a feast for the eyes and the food was equally impressive. During lunch, Bouillon Racine offers a menu for 19.50 euros (about $22.00) with your choice of an appetizer (entrée) and main (plat), main and dessert, or main and coffee. For my main, I choose roasted chicken accompanied by a light mushroom sauce and the best mashed potatoes I have ever had. Full of butter, cream, and chives, and topped with crispy fried onions bits, it was pure heaven on a fork! For dessert, I had the crème brulée (burnt cream) which is a rich custard topped with a layer of hardened caramelized sugar. Many restaurants in Portugal offer it on their dessert menu but the French version is the best. The top layer of sugar is burnt with a blow torch just before serving and you crack it with your spoon to reach the custard underneath. After our amazing lunch, we made plans to meet Michel later that evening for drinks and live music at an Irish Pub near our hotel.

With its prime location along the Seine, Galway Irish Pub is a hot spot for both residents and tourists. Their drafts beers include both Guinness (my favorite) and Kilkenny, and live music is offered from Thursday to Sunday nights. The musician that evening had a great playlist of American and British songs and graciously gave the stage to Rick for a few songs during his second set. Such a memorable way to end our trip to Paris!

Here are some suggestions for things to see and do in Paris on a two-day visit:

• Take a Hop On/Hop Off Bus tour
• Visit one of the many beautiful gardens (our favorites are Luxembourg and Tuileries)
• Attend a concert (these are held in churches and the musicians are classically trained)
• Take a lunch or dinner cruise on the Siene River
• Grab a table at a sidewalk café and enjoy people watching while trying some delicious French wine, cheese, and charcuterie
• Visit a local market street
• Walk along the Seine River
• Look in the night sky for the Eiffel Tower light show which begins at dusk and runs for 5 minutes at the top of every hour until 11:00 pm

Join me for my next blog where we spend a few days in another of our favorite cities, Amsterdam.

Cover Image: Eating with a View of Notre Dame, Sleeping in Style (Photo courtesy of Hotel La Lanterne), Drinking at a Sidewalk Cafe